I spent thirteen happy nights and days alone in a mostly-isolated cottage on a mountain somewhere in Germany. The birds sang. I’d do yoga with the trees. The world is full-time precious and bright again. I talked to almost no one, yet my full world was utterly devoid of loneliness.
It was also nearly devoid of wifi, which is worth noting, and bittersweet. I do think I’d have been more lonely had I had the internet to worry about. I didn’t though, so mostly I worried about which forest path would be my next and how to identify birds.
It wasn’t long til I wore my monocular (yep) around my neck. Yep.
It also wasn’t long til I perfected my mountain pose. I also wrote some little ditties that no one will ever hear. For the birds.
On Tuesday morning–day twelve–I started to prepare for departure by cleaning and organizing smaller things. I had been looking forward to a day of reading and puttering. Hiking over the past couple of days had me whooped.
So not a lot changed when the power went out. (Keep in mind though the absence of neighbors/assistance, internet, phone, I was up a mountain, and es tut mir leid, I can’t speak German.)
That was the day I read _Their Eyes Were Watching God_. I dare imagine that no few women of color remember exactly the time they read this book. It is simply powerful. Exquisite. The day was winding down as I exhaled everything I’d held for Janie, and breathed deep of her strength. I heard a chirp and looked to see a robin–not an American robin, friends, look it up–on the deck. It sang at me a while then fluttered off with a whirr like the cousin of a hummingbird. It was then I noticed the sun had begun it’s bedtime routine.
Night thirteen. I tried all the things I knew how to try, again, to bring the power back. I was resolved to a night of cold, but the dark had suddenly become intimidating. I smoked as the sun set and put it into perspective. What had changed, really? I have flashlights (one wind-up and one with extra batteries, thanks fam) and a hot water bottle, plenty of books to read and letters to write, and food. Okay, I thought, bring it on.
I settled into my comfort with this strange situation becoming stranger and suddenly remembered the Hunter’s Moon. Today was Tuesday the 24th of October, 2018: a full autumnal moon.
She rose glorious and I wrote about her. I’m bleeding so the full moon felt extra special. It was the brightest night I’d seen out there.
It may interest you to know that I am regularly the type to insist on using my own eyes in the dark of nature. Fire is cool cuz it doesn’t totally mess with your night vision. Stars look better with the porch lights off. A good moon will always light your way, if you let her.
On this adventure I hadn’t left all the lights off in the house except to sleep. The nighttime world was overwhelmingly dark; a new moon when I arrived. The light from the living room encircled only the small backyard, leaving the rest of everything unknown. Even though I had a fence, at night I wanted the animals to know I was there, so I’d keep that light on. Sometimes I would stomp. Or fart. Once in a while a good burp would whisper into the night: “stay away.” So the animals always knew what was up.
The moon came up and she was beaming. Like a freshly manicured, perfectly coiffed model she dazzled, spotlighting the darkness, displaying delights you mightn’t have noticed had her delicate fingers not whispered past. The world was deep in shades, three dimensional in a shimmery grey that could be nearly white, or deep black, but everything in between was the party. I’ve seen many moons like these, I’ve played under them. I was reminded of so many stars and adventures. I wasn’t even a little bit scared to have the lights off.
When I heard the hooves I looked to see the animal had noticed me at the same time and stopped still. It remained in the deepest of shadow, but I knew it was there. I was still inside my fence, but we were only ten feet apart, this animal and I. I decided to treat it like any other neighbor, and whispered into the black, “Guten abend.” I gave the creature a little up-nod and walked back into the unlit cottage without looking back. Even then I had yet to really feel afraid.
It occurred to me exactly once that if anybody noticed my flashlight they might come wondering. I wouldn’t be able to explain myself in German. I realized I fear men more than anything else in the dark, cold world. I had one more smoke with the moon and settled in for the night.
I spent the rest of the dark before bedtime stretching, holding my hot water bottle, and playing tarot. It was exactly how I wanted to spend my evening. I was happy and comfortable.
I woke up rejuvenated, ready, and almost kind of warm. I bundled up and gave the cabin every ounce of the love it had given me, keeping warm by cleaning and organizing. I opened the doors and listened to the birds sing, really sing! I felt a little like a northern woodland princess, all bundled and beaming with birds dancing about. I hiked down the mountain feeling loved and ready to leave.
Day fourteen: I don’t know if I’ll ever go back, but there is no way I’ll ever forget. The only expression of gratitude for a gift of such freedom of aloneness is to carry some treasured brightness around with you, I suppose. I will do my best, and always thank the sky.
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Afterword
The power had been turned off by the owners of the land on which the cottage sat. When contacted, they claimed not to have known anyone was up there. I found this strange because I saw them most days. I’m delighted I had the presence of mind to leave when I did. I continue to thank the sky for the whole adventure.




