Every day is punctuated by small moments. The sentences between can drag on like the fields of Tennessee, or hide surprises like the Cherokee National Forest. These long stretches broken up by fractions of the minutes when my wide-eyed regard of the world drops my jaw as well.
Do you think three Baptist churches all next door in a row are rivals? Like do they have softball tournaments? Maybe gun clubs. If not for COVID i might have been tempted to investigate. i’ve always wondered what Baptist churches are like.

Today i wanted to find postcards. Jasper, Arkansas is an adorable little town that i would visit again with the opportunity. The Buffalo River is a meandering stunner. Loneliness can creep in the moments you realize you can’t camp in a dream spot because you’ve neither a pal nor any phone service. Why this was easier in New England, i can’t say. In Jasper i decided i wanted to remember to return, so i sought postcards. i waited until ten minutes after opening time to stroll into a shop where i was gladly met with some faded beauties of Buffalo River greatness. The shopkeeper said i could just have them. He just didn’t feel like they were worth much, and they were “at least thirty years old”.
In a landscape i’d never seen before, i settled down for a day. Trees growing out of water like “Tennessee mangroves”, according to Viv, but looking desolate in a gorgeous, particularly wintry way. i scared a black vulture, then an eagle startled me (video in previous post). Local people came and went—fishing, looking, one red-faced old man even drove his white pickup with a matching cowboy hat on the dash right up to me to chat. He wanted to know where i’d gotten my tent, but not really. Later, he came back to wish me well and warm. Sure, i didn’t love the advertising: single person in the wilderness, but in the end it was the ominous environs that had me departing before nightfall.

Yesterday i crested a hill with Sorcha where a great blue heron was looking for a spot on a pond. This dinosaur bird flew right beside my passenger window, less than ten feet away, and i managed to maintain my composure even while i could see it neck feathers ruffled by the wind. i swear, in flight that bird was half the length of my car.
These wide open fields, particularly in Tennessee where the space goes on and on, host a wild, unadulterated wind that just does whatever it wants. Birds apparently love this—they glide and bounce just above the ground, going absolutely nowhere against an infinity current of gust and breeze. There’s nothing like a flock of geese puttering around on the ground while another flock bounces around in the air only a few feet up.
i am a slow driver generally, but also i drive a Prius. i also prefer mountain and country roads to highways. i pull over to let other drivers pass often. In fact, i wrote most of this on shoulders of beautiful roads where i’d rather gawk than go the speed limit. i appreciate that Arkansas drivers aren’t as into tailgating as.. well, everyone else so far. It’s not like i didn’t know i was going slow before your headlights leaned into my trunk, North Carolina! Now i’m looking for the shoulder a bit more frantically, thanks. But Arkansas, you dears, leaving as much space between vehicles as between words in your sentences. i am so pleased to find a place to let you scooch on by. i’m realizing now that this is a lot of my comfort with the Ozarks over the Smoky Mountains. Tourist traps, take note.
Tree farms couldn’t possibly be more pleasing to the eye. All in rows, all different type of trees. i couldn’t do it justice, in words or photos, but the organization of those particular fields was, to me, exquisite.

i stopped by a KOA to ask after a hot shower. i was just ripening, and the woman at the desk said, “Cuz of the pandemic i can’t let you use the showers if you’re not a guest.” Then almost immediately followed that up with, “Okay I’ll give you the code but just keep it clean I know you will and if anybody asks you anything you tell em you’re a registered guest and to mind their business.” She was not wearing a mask. She was wearing a Trump hat. She stuck out her pinky for me to lock mine, so i did, “Pay it forward, okay?” i cannot recollect a sweeter shower.
i blow a kiss to every roadkill. Some are really gross, others still beautiful. One was a dog with a collar. Another a chicken. The worst was my own warm bird in Sorcha’s grille. i also spied a live, collared cat hunting in the deep shoulder off the expressway, and several more off-leash dogs wandering around more rural spaces. i like when the cows plod toward food with calves at their heels, and when i catch them playing in streams around midday. Or bathing each other with their weird cow tongues, the best. Sometimes i see sheep; they are big on staring. Nothing beats watching young deer romp, though. A treat.

Apparently if you spy a kestrel, even from the interior of the car, they will stare you down. i didn’t mean to win these staring contests but in my life i have never felt so seen by a winged creature. i couldn’t look away. i met two separate small raptors in the Holla Bend National Wildlife Refuge, where the lady at the desk wouldn’t let me pay the $2 fee because, “all the waterfowl go to the lake every day anyway, so you probably won’t see much.” She told me about how the eagles hunt in pairs, the first one startling a flock as the other swoops in to pin down the slowest bird. She also told me about biscuits with chocolate gravy for breakfast, and where to find elk. All the information was so spot on that maybe i’ll have to try those weird biscuits after all.












































































