If I ever come back to Indonesia the first phrase I’ll practice saying is: “Don’t put cheese on my banana.”
Fried banana dessert featuring chocolate and shredded cheese. Banana pancakes, famous on Bali in particular, are also dressed this way.
You can find lots of animals doing their animal business all the time in the countrysides of Asia. My personal least favorite might be dogs barking incessantly to themselves. One such pup was really pitching a fit the other day, the little yappy jerk. It was late afternoon and I wondered what the fuss was about. When I spied the little doggo, he was bathed in the glow before sunset, anxiously bounding about the base of a shrine facing east. He was very much alone, and insistent. For the first time in my life I felt sympathy for a tiny dog’s incessant noise-making. Who doesn’t want to yell at the gods sometimes?
I heard a guy leaving our hostel say, “Maybe I forgot something. I will have to return for it sometime.” Our host replied, “I will keep it safe for you.”
This exchange occurred so naturally that it seemed perhaps a local colloquiallism, and indeed a fond gesture of hope for an unlikely reunion. I thought this may be the most beautiful farewell I’ve ever heard.
And then the day comes when you’re finally disconnected; finally free of Facebook and social media. There’s so much reading and writing to be done! Crossword puzzles need solving and the world is calling. Our map is by memory, or advice from our hosts: “on the right at the strawberry monument”, “in the middle of the traditional market”, and “after the big corn”. The birds seem louder here without a phone in my hands. They are too sticky from peeling fruit, anyway.
These days are easier. I left DC dreaming that on this trip I might experience some level of boredom. To me, yawning and whining about there being nothing exciting sounds like such a magnificent privilege. Since trip plans began I wondered how I would sneak in some restless days of unreasonable complaints. It has been six weeks non-stop, or stopping only for a day at a time. Now, accidentally and abruptly unplugged in Bedugul, the Bali capital of fruit–and, apparently, broken WiFi promises–I have sat still. I have woken up to bird calls, few of which are roosters, and written my own songs to go along. Maybe I watch the sky for hours, just listening. Maybe Dave drives us nowhere on the scooter for a while. We eat the same homemade homestay breakfast every day, and visit the tiny market on the corner for dinner each night. Bedtime is nightfall, our alarm is daybreak, and every boring moment is a bit brighter without a screen near my face.
After listening to a bit of our “where we’ve been and where we’re going”, as you do in hostel life, one of our particularly fantastic Jogja roommates asked in some kind of wonderment, “Do you two have scheduled days off?” We just kind of looked at each other before Dave shrugged, “Well, they happen.”
Yes, yes they do.